Fearful Timid and Anxious Dogs

Socialisation is so vitally important that it almost outweighs all other considerations. The fear of infections has led breeders and owners alike to make the tragic mistake of keeping their puppies isolated until they have completed their vaccinations. By taking this stance they risk ending up with a fearful, timid dog that may become aggressive in later life, (FACT) "95% of all reported dog bites are fear related".

Owners should strike a commonsense balance. Puppies, especially from birth through to 16 weeks must be exposed to a variety of experiences including people, places, and meeting other vaccinated dogs (this is perfectly safe). There are many activities and places to take dogs, without endangering their health or their lives. It is vital that you take the time to expose your new pup to as many of these situations as possible. This is especially true for one's second or third dog; it is too easy to keep the new pup in the company of the older dogs, depriving him of the opportunity to develop self-confidence of his own, without relying totally on the older dog/s and their protection.

There is a vaccination that has been available for two years, where the full course can be administered by ten weeks rather than the normal twelve, therefore allowing two extra vital weeks of socialisation. The vaccine is made by Intervet and is called Nobivac D.H.P.P.I/L. I would discuss this with your Vet, if they don't supply it ask why?

Having said all that, genetics as well as socialisation ie Nature x Nurture have a major impact on your dog's ability to cope successfully with life. Some are so solid genetically that whatever life throws at them they just bounce back. I have a little rescue Jack Russell/Dachund cross whose early experiences were so horrific that he should have every hang up in the book, the abuse and injuries suffered by this poor dog included his leg being fractured and snapped out of the hip socket, and all his ribs systematically broken.

Over a period of time and with the ministrations of a fabulous veterinary nurse I was asked to look at his temperament with a view to rehoming. After meeting him and hearing his awful story I decided to treat and rehome him with me. He has now made a full recovery, his confidence has soared, once again he loves and trusts people, his tail a constant blur is testament to his ability to cope with everything life has thrown at him. So despite a traumatic start "the abuse started at four months old" he has overcome this and is now one of the nicest and most loving dogs I have ever owned.

Unfortunately other dogs are not so genetically sound. Even with an ideal environment, early socialisation and the perfect owner. This will not be enough to help these hereditary unstable dogs. Their genetic temperament can and will determine how much improvement in personality and social skills the dog can achieve. It is about time that some breeders came to the realisation that that temperament not looks or conformity should be the main reason for breeding. Not money or accolades!

Don't expect a 100% cure there is no miracle word or magic wand, and don't underestimate the amount of work involved. Yes you can create a less fearful and anxiety ridden dog but only to the level that the dog can sustain. The type of owner or trainer that believes that the fearful dog should be thrust headlong into every situation, and that it will desensitise and cure them are I am afraid sadly disillusioned.

The old trick of throwing a child into a swimming pool in the hope it would quickly learn to swim, is now hopefully outdated and outmoded, it achieved nothing except possibly leaving the victim with a lifelong fear of water. Crashing headlong into circumstances the dog cannot cope with will normally produce similar results.

You should also give careful consideration as the whether you want, or indeed have the time the stamina and the patience to treat and work with a dog that has irrational fears and phobias. If you do not possess the above traits, it may be better for both of you to separate and the dog be rehomed with someone that is hopefully experienced with this type of dog, and who has the necessary temperament to deal with a dog that can at the best of times exasperate and at the worst infuriate.

Distance Learning
To gain and improve a dog's confidence and reduce the level of anxiety and timidity you need to use a consistent, gentle, positive, and measured approach. If you try to speed up the process beyond the capability of the dog, then you will go backwards and your dog's new found confidence will plummet. Firstly you must work out the distance where your dog feels fearful of a given situation, let's say it is another dog, then you need to approach the dog with yours on a lead, do not tighten the lead as this will convey your own anxiety to your dog. Watch your dog's body language as soon as you see any submissive, aggressive or fearful reaction then stop and back up until the dog is relaxed again.

Once you have found the distance that allows the dog to relax then either treat or play with your dog using a favoured toy. What we are looking for is a positive association whereby the dog sees the feared object which could be anything from a vacuum cleaner to a bus. As a matter of interest dogs will not take food when they are fearful or stressed. This is instinctual as the flight mode kicks in, your dog does not want a full stomach when it may need to run away. This can also be used as an indicator of the dog's state of mind even if there are no outward signs of distress.

Move in stages a little closer to whatever is causing the aggression or fear keep talking and reassuring the dog, you should be aiming to stay at a distance that allows the dog to feel reasonably relaxed. Gradually, over what could be many sessions you should reach the point where the dog will be comfortable, even though he is near to the object that caused the initial fear/reaction. Irrespective of whether it is another dog, place, or object gradual desensitisation should work for all.

8 Tips on How to Train a Dog

Having a dog as your companion can be a true joy. However, you don't want your beloved buddy chewing your new shoes or going to the bathroom in the house. Therefore, you need to create a dog training plan to help your new puppy or dog understand the rules of the house.
What things should you focus on in dog training when you want your dog to understand the expected behaviors and even some fun tricks? Should you take dog training classes or complete dog training all on your own? The answer to these questions is that it depends. Take a look at the following dog training options to determine what type of dog training you want to provide for your canine best friend.
Possible dog training options include: a beginning obedience class that you can take through your local human society, dog supply stores such as PETCO, community recreation departments, and local colleges. These dog training classes can vary in price, time commitment, and personal attention. They are usually affordable and meet once a week at a community park. It is a great way to not only have your dog experience basic dog training, but socialize with other dogs as well.
If you have the financial resources and time you can hire a personal dog trainer. This type of trainer may be necessary if your pooch is having a hard time in basic classes and your dog training efforts aren't making a difference. Before you invest in a private dog trainer it is important to make an accurate assessment of your dog training methods. Often times a dog that is not following directions is the result of the poor dog training by the dog's owner.
A private dog trainer might be necessary if you are going to show your dog at dog shows. You can hire a dog trainer/handler or you can become one yourself. If you do, you must know the proper dog training techniques. You don't want to have Fido jump up on the judges during the competition so he must be trained thoroughly and correctly.
You can also search through dog training books, guides, and various resources. There are products that will help you complete dog training such as special collars and muzzles. You can effectively go through a dog training regime with your canine if you follow these eight dog training tips.
Tip #1: Many people start their dog on the path to dog training success by enrolling them in a basic obedience class. This is a great idea because you will learn how to teach your do basic commands such as "sit", "stay", and "heel".
You can teach these dog training commands by using verbal commands and physical actions. For example, right after you say the word "sit" you gently push your dog's bottom down onto the ground and put them in the sit position. Immediately say "good" and smile. Give them a tasty treat as well. Basically, you want to do as much as you can to reinforce the action of sitting when you say "sit".
Tip #2: Dogs act like absorbent sponges when it comes to learning proper behavior and tricks. If you do your job properly then dog training should be a hit. Your dog is ready and eager to learn proper behavior. They want to please you. Therefore, if they aren't following your instruction it might not be their fault. You might be giving confusing dog training instructions.
Tip #3: Dogs thrive on positive reinforcement and encouragement. Positive reinforcement such as acting excited and petting your dog when they do the right behavior help with your dog training efforts. It is a dogâÂ(TM)s nature to want to be close to you and make you happy. Showing encouragement and praise will help your dog much farther, much faster in their dog training. Make sure to encourage a dog through each dog training accomplishment, no matter how big or small.
Tip #4: Food is a powerful motivator when it comes to dog training. You will be hard pressed to find a dog that passes up food or a tasty treat. Dogs are always hungry and welcome any situation where food is involved.
Tip #5: Dog training should be a gradual process with regards to skill level and learning more complex commands. Give your dog time to understand new commands. They most likely won't learn it the first day you teach them. You will have to review the commands and proper behaviors often.
Tip #6: Have dog training sessions at various times throughout the day. Your dog needs periodic training to reinforce the proper behaviors. You dog's attention span can wane, so make sure to keep the training sessions to five to ten minutes long.
Tip #7: When you first start dog training work in environment that is free from distractions so your dog can focus on their behavior. Once your dog understands the basic commands you can try to use the commands in a busier environment.
One thing you may find is that your dog is distracted and seems to have forgotten the commands. Don't fret. This can happen because dogs tend to be situational learners and your dog just needs to work on the commands in the busier environment.
Tip #8: Too many treats equals an overweight dog. Dog training is a process that involves tasty treats, but too many of these treats can be a bad idea for your dog's waistline. Use small treats and wean your dog off treats as they understand the different commands. They will then rely on your praise as the positive reinforcement for each behavior.
These eight dog training tips will set you on the road to happy, healthy, obedient pooch.

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How to Prepare Your Dog for Your Newborn Baby

If you are like much of the population, your four-legged friend is your first "baby." Many people worry needlessly about how their dog will handle a baby in their life. Many owners think of getting rid of the family pets because of fears that they will harm the baby. Please do not do this unless there is no other option. Most dogs, when treated and trained properly, can handle life with a newborn very well.

Children and pets make wonderful companions when raised properly together and taught how to behave with each other. Children that grow up in a home with pets learn respect and love for animals, and more importantly, respect for life. As the children grow older they can learn responsibility by helping to care for the animals. Animals enrich our and our children's lives beyond belief.

Having a baby can cause problems for both humans and dogs, as the dog tends to be treated differently, and because of this, may act differently. Some owners baby the dog more, causing the dog to become spoiled and hard to handle. Other owners get over-stressed and punish the dog for normal, curious behavior toward the baby. Often our pets are the center of our world, our "babies" if you would, and can get "jealous" if not equipped to handle losing that status to the new baby. If you are willing to make the time and effort to prepare your pets for the new arrival, everyone can live in harmony.

Sometimes the dogs become overprotective of the baby. Many owners enjoy and even prefer the dog being a guard for the baby. While it is normal for the dog to become protective of the baby, it is dangerous for the dog to become overprotective and not let anyone near the baby. All of the above scenarios can lead to the dog being kicked out of the house!

As you are making preparations to bring home baby, you need to prepare your dog(s) for the same in advance if possible. While most dogs will be very gentle with the baby, many dogs do not see babies as humans because of their size, smell, and the strange noises they make. By taking the time to give your dog some extra love and attention he should be fine and not turn to bad behavior to get your attention. You need to prepare and educate your dog for what lies ahead. This will ensure that they are ready and willing to accept the new family member with open and loving paws.

Using calming remedies (herbs, aromatherapy, oils) and or prescription medications are also an option to help facilitate a better behaved dog. You can talk to your veterinarian to inquire about these products and the implications associated with their use. I am a believer in the holistic approach whenever possible, instead of using drugs.

Please, please always be aware that your dog is an animal and animals can bite or do harm to a baby, intentionally or unintentionally. No matter how well-behaved or loving your dog is NEVER LEAVE YOUR DOG ALONE WITH YOUR BABY! I cannot stress this enough. Accidents can happen. You do not want to harm your baby or have to get rid of your dog because of an unfortunate, and possibly avoidable, incident.

If you are unsure that your dog will accept your new baby, please seek the advice of a professional trainer or behaviorist before making any decisions.

Believe it or not, your behavior with, and toward your dog matters. It can make or break your dog's acceptance of and respect for your baby. If you act like a leader, you will be treated like a leader. You want your dog to respect every human being in your household, including your baby. You must teach your dog respect for the baby. This will make life easier for all those involved.

Be firm but fair-

Do not let your dog get away with things, but don't be a drill sergeant either! Try to make any corrections as gentle as possible, but make sure they are effective. Try to have fun with your dog and the training - you both need to enjoy it or neither one will want to continue!

Your tone of voice matters-

DO NOT YELL at your dog! Convey the meaning of the command through the tone of voice - match your voice to what you are telling your dog. Commands should be short and succinct, in a low, almost growling voice. Your voice should not get higher as you give the command. Do not sing to your dog or ask the dog a question! You will not get the answer you want! When giving praise, sound like you mean it! It should be the opposite of a command - higher pitched and enthusiastic. If your dog gets overly excited when you praise him, tone it down a bit and speak softly. Your dog will still understand that he is doing a good job, but he will be less likely to jump around and be crazy.

Be calm and assertive-

Our dogs feed off of our energies and emotions. This affects their behaviors and reactions. If we are relaxed and confident, our dogs will feel the same, and know that we are LEADING them, and they do not have to lead us.

Use a crate-

If your dog does not already use a crate, now is the time to start. A crate is not cruel, it can actually be a wonderful and safe place for your dog. Confining your dog at certain times, such as for sleep or times when you cannot supervise, is no different than putting your baby in its crib for the same. It is actually very easy to teach your dog to accept being in the crate. Most people think that a dog who has not used a crate before will have a hard time, but that is not usually true. My two older dogs started using the crate when they were 7 and 8 years old, about the time my son started crawling and exploring on his own. This allowed me to know that both my child and my dogs were safe and nothing bad could happen. Your child can be hurt by your dog as easy as your child could hurt your dog. The problem lies in the fact that if the dog makes even the slightest threat to your baby or even inadvertently hurts your baby, it is your dog's fault. It is not fair to the dog for something like that to happen because you were not supervising the two together at all times!

Walking Your Dog

One of the most common issues when walking a dog on a lead is the pulling the dog does. Sometimes it may feel like your dog is taking you for a walk and you aren't too far of the truth. It makes for one of the most unenjoyable experiences and often it can cause people to stop walking there dog or limit the number of walks they do. It can lead to great stress in the dog owner and can lead to a feeling of immense frustration. The good news is that people do train there dogs to walk beside them and any dog can be trained to walk properly on the lead.

Scenario

Time to take the dog for a walk.

We get up from our chair perhaps saying to the dog "walk time", the dog responds by getting up and coming to life. We head to the bedroom putting on a coat or changing into more appropriate clothing for the walk. During this time we may make more eye contact with our dog and talk to it which leads it to bounce around and often this makes us happy because our dog is happy and can't wait to go for a walk. So we only encourage this more and more cause we want our dogs to be happy. Usually the next thing is we start to head towards the door and if you come down stairs or walk down a hallway you will find your dog runs towards the door before you can even get there. We may at this time tell our dog to slow down or calm down.

As we draw closer to the front door the dog may start to bark and spin around in circles in excitement. At this point we may get our dog to sit, even though it maybe shaking in excitement. We put the lead on our dog and pretty much as soon as the dog hears the click of the lead it stands up and heads straight at the door. It's about this time that we start to get angrier and our first out-burst maybe here, where we yell at our dog and command it to sit. We open the door and as soon as it opens our dog leaps outside dragging us with them. This makes us even angrier so we pull the dog back to us and attempt to shut the door and maybe we yell out to someone inside that we're are taking the dog for a walk. We start to head towards the road and all the way our dog is pulling us like a freight train, they may start to sniff a bush then mark it, giving us a little relief before they rocket to the next spot to mark or sniff.

It can be quite embarrassing especially when people start to stare at us and watch as our dog drags us down the street. It's around this time we may either loose it and yell at our dog or just accept that this is what our dog wants on its walk. Often on the walk we can hear the dog choking on the lead which makes us attempt to reason with the dog by telling it to wait or stop, when all this fails we let out more lead which allows it temporary relief before it charges ahead and continues to choke itself. The only way we stop the choking is by walking at its pace. By the time we get home the dog has slowed down and perhaps it may not be pulling much on the lead. That is till we reach our home. When we approach the door our dog starts to again pull at the lead and drag us to the front door.

We then open the door and our dog charges in and we look exhausted and find the walk is not enjoyable, rather it's a chore. From here we start to associate walks with negative thoughts and thus we start to become less incline to take our dog for a walk. It seems hopeless and all the tips our relatives and friends give us just don't work well or only discourage us. So being a proactive person we start to look around for information on how to walk your dog properly. After Googleing "how to stop your dog pulling on a lead" we have found this article. Or maybe you found this other ways - it's not important. What's important is that this issue is very common and with some simple tips and consistent training your dog will be walking properly on a lead.

Your Walk begins before you go for a walk:

Dogs learn from being rewarded. The behaviour of our dog is a direct reflection of how we reward our dog for certain behaviours. If your dog jumps around in excitement it's because you have rewarded this behaviour. A reward can be as simple as talking to your dog, touching your dog or even eye contact. It's important to know a reward is not just a chocolate drop; it comes in many forms and often is associated with body language. Also, hugely important, is that the training of a dog doesn't stop. There is no such thing as "training time" and then the rest of the time with your dog. You can teach a dog to sit and stay however once this stops your dog will still be learning - especially how to behave in different situations. Just like how kids don't stop learning when they come home from school.

Our energy is often another large part of how a dog behaves. If you get up and jump around all excited your dog will mimics this energy. If you get up with no heighten energy, no eye contact with your dog, nothing said, your dog will most likely get up and walk around slowly (especially if your dog follows you around the house everywhere).

How on earth does all this relate to walking your dog properly? Well the walk begins as soon as you get up from your chair. In the scenario above when we got up from our chair to go for a walk we said to our dog "walk time" which alerted our dog to heightened its energy and thus it got excited. Often we have trained our dog to react a certain way to words or body language by accident and its these triggers which cause our dogs to react like nutters sometime.

So first thing, if you are about to go for a walk totally ignore your dog and don't let on you are even doing anything. Don't make any eye contact, say nothing and try to keep a well balanced energy. Often it maybe good to visualise a reason you are going for a walk, perhaps rather than taking your dog for a walk your are walking to the local Dairy to grab a bottle of milk and your dog is following you. Remember that when you are going for a walk, you aren't walking your dog. Rather you are going for a walk and your dog gets to come with you. This is very important because without this going through our head we may do subtle things the dog picks up on which make it think it can lead you on this walk. If your dog is pulling on your lead, it means it's leading you.

Christmas Gifts For Bird Lovers

Choosing gifts for any animal lovers can be quite a pleasure, as it is often a gift that is shared by the recipient with her animal friends or pets. This is especially so with bird lover gifts. People who really love birds tend to want them to enhance their gardens, to encourage real wild birds to visit time and again, or even stay for the breeding season.

A gift for a bird lover can therefore be a gift of life, a promotion of nature around the home, visible from the windows or while tending the garden. Encouraging wild birds to their gardens is something that millions do in the northern hemisphere, especially in the winter when many wild birds suffer from food shortages.

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At Christmas, cards are commonly adorned by robins, their red breasts contrasting so vividly with the white snow. But that pretty picture can be deceiving, with the harshness of winter depriving the robin and other resident birds of the sustenance and warmth they need to survive until spring. It is that threat that brings out the best in bird lovers through those winter months.

It is not just winter, though, that encourages true bird lovers to think about the birds. In the summer, too, many Americans and Britons have taken to encouraging birds to nest in their gardens or on their homes.

What Gifts Can You Choose For A Bird Lover?

Christmas comes as the coldest of winter approaches, so if you know someone who cares for the wild birds, it can be a good time to buy a bird gift that will help them with their feeding of the birds in their garden. This will not only help the regular bird visitors to their garden, but encourage new visitors too. Sometimes in the worst winters, some rarer birds may give lots of pleasure and excitement to the garden's owner as they come seeking food and shelter.

If you are not a bird lover yourself, and are not sure of the sort of things you can buy as a gift, here are a few ideas for you:

Bird Feeders

Bird feeders can be the winter saviour for many birds in a cold winter. This is especially true with small birds, who have to eat continually from dawn to dusk to survive the night. Those nuts that are put out in a simple nut feeder could save those birds lives on many a night when there is frost and snow around.

The variety of bird feeders is very wide nowadays. Window feeders have been around a long time, but they too have grown in the variety available since the first plastic versions appeared a few decades ago. In more recent years, some very decorative, and attractive feeders have been created, and there is a wide choice of these available now as gifts for your bird lover friends and relatives.

Remember also that you can get feeders that are for particular species of bird. You will find feeders for bluebirds, hummingbirds, orioles and other beautiful birds.

Should you decide to buy a bird feeder as a Christmas gift, it may be a nice touch too if you added a supply of an appropriate bird food. That could mean the happy bird lover setting the feeder up Christmas morning, and having some very special feathered visitors for Christmas lunch. And I'm not talking about the turkey!

Bird Houses or Nest Boxes

If you want to brighten up Christmas by looking ahead to spring, then you will find another range of bird lover gifts with bird houses, or nest boxes as they are more commonly called in the UK. While bird houses may not be used until spring and summer for nesting, there are two good reasons for setting them up early.

Firstly, some birds will use them as shelter in bad weather, so again, this is a gift that could be a life saver. Secondly, house prospecting amongst birds can go on long before nesting. If the bird house goes up in December, you can bet that this new piece of prime real estate will be eyed by many a bird passing through the garden or by the house.

10 Clevdr Ways to Spot the Best & Worst Dog Trainers on the Web Or in Your Town!

Many average trainers teach "average group classes," charge you an "average price" and have, well... that "average" knowledge and skill about dogs, dog training, dog behavior and canine psychology. Most owners who don't know better or who don't really care about these facts, just settle with such trainers and end up with "average results" or even worse-NO RESULTS-in training their dogs! In contrast, the Master Minds I'll be describing in this chapter aren't your average at all and are known to beat the odds.

So who emerges from the pack? There is an amazing energy and spirit about these individuals which you'll notice right away that goes far beyond dog training. In fact, they know it is much more than dealing with dogs, and this is where I'll open your eyes to the traits and qualities of the SMARTEST and the most successful dog experts in the business. Because of their knowledge, skill and persona, they are not only making it--but making it big with class and integrity. Again, don't forget that I'm referring to the SMARTEST, so you don't think that they just got lucky for being at the "right place," at the "right time" or by meeting the "right person." Even if that was the case for a few to some degree, before you know it, they took over and kept on paddling on their own.

I learned a long time ago that if you want to get better in anything, you have to put your ego aside and learn from much better and smarter minds than yourself.

Sometimes this simply came down to hiring the best expert money can buy. (I've also learned a lot from the worst-of-the-worst. After all, this is where you learn what NOT to do.) After studying those who were considered to be as the "real deal," I've noticed that they all came from a totally different class and mentality, and it's no wonder why their success rate was so hard to ignore. When put through the test, they all possessed these ten qualities about them:

1. They Care about You, Your Dog and Their Reputation

You see, it's not always about how much you know or how great you are, but it is also about how much you "care." This simply means these trainers are truly nice people. The old saying, "nice guys finish last," isn't their motto. Studies have shown that nice people live longer, are happier, get more referrals, are always surrounded by friends and relatives, rarely get sued, and rarely get killed. Some may also have a great sense of humor. Sorry, only some. We all know someone with a sense of humor and know that this shows that they love what they do, don't let things bother them as much, and care to make others if not laugh, at least smile here and there. Why the majority of dog trainers are so rude, mean, and disrespectful and act like Mr./Mrs. Know-It-All, is beyond me. It's no secret that most of the time you can tell a lot about someone the minute you talk to them on the phone or in person. That again is, if, you are even able to reach any of them on the phone. Which brings up the fact of caring, once again.

Those who truly CARE not only will get back to you, but often try to reach you immediately. They know that you may need help right away!! You'll soon find out that most dog trainers leave you hanging and you start to grow gray hair waiting for a call back or an e-mail.

Once you are finally able to get a live person on the phone, make sure you get a good vibe from the very start, if not, why bother? This simply means no matter how good they may be, you will be stuck with a jerk, psycho, weirdo, nut job and the list goes on and on. Women are much better than men with their intuition. They say, "It has to feel right." Or "I didn't get a good vibe from him/her." If it the person makes you feel uncomfortable by being too pushy, rude, condescending, or there is something you don't like about him/her, then you could be stuck with this person in your home, in private, or for six to eight weeks down the line.

Top trainers usually answer your tough questions with patience and respect and don't mind or get offended by how much you challenge their knowledge or expertise. These individuals don't just deliver, but often OVER-deliver. This is because they care about their image and their reputation and truly want to stand out from the pack. They know going that extra mile WILL get them that extra attention. After all, how many times have you hired a painter, a contractor, an attorney, or even a babysitter who disappointed you with their poor work ethics? They did a poor job or didn't care much. As some say, "They just go with the flow," and never care about any constructive criticism from ANYONE. You simply don't see that "wow factor" or that "pizzazz" in their work. Noooooooo, I didn't say pizza again. So put down the Parmesan cheese.

If you've already hired a dog trainer in the past, you probably went out of your way to make sure you were hiring a "pro," just to find out that they were definitely a "pro" but also a pro in doing a lousy job or a pro in--"ripping you off!" How fast someone gets back to you, or even if, they even bother to get back to you are all the qualities you should look for. For example, a lot of group class trainers if they don't have a class starting soon, or their class happens to be full, won't even bother to call you back. They even get lazy to mention this on their answering machine. This would never happen with those who actually care about you and your dog.

Once you get to actually talk to these individuals, you can't help it but notice how honest, caring, genuine, and professional they come across.

Whether it is in person, on the phone, or by e-mail, the ones who know they are on top of their game never sound pushy or desperate. In fact, they know not everyone recognizes, appreciates, or even deserves the very best. This is just a fact of life. Those who are among the best-of-the-best in the world of dog training, are considered to be as remarkable teachers/counselors and don't get mad when I add this-even great therapists. The truth is, that the majority of dog owners have no technique, get nervous, act tense, are too harsh with their dog, get too loud, or they can't get firm enough if and when needed. And what's even more sad is none of the trainers who they even hired in the past, bothered to point out their GOOD qualities either. Everybody knows it's not that hard to point out someone's weaknesses. What makes a good trainer brilliant is his/her ability to praise the owners' good habits while correcting their mistakes in a courteous manner. Unfortunately the majority of dog trainers lack people skills and are famous for treating the owners like dogs. I had to learn this the hard way. So the ones that DO make a positive impact among dog owners are the ones that know there is a difference between insulting someone and giving a critique.

You see, there are thousands of great "trainers" out there, thousands--but only a few great "instructors!" Training and teaching the owners is where lies the real challenge.

2. Their Training Method Is Backed by Common Sense

As a writer I hate saying this, but please don't believe everything you read-especially things that just don't make any sense. If you don't see any logic or rationality behind it, how do you suppose your poor dog is going to make any sense out of it? Here's an example. I have a client who owns a Cocker Spaniel that was vicious toward dogs and children. The behaviorists advised her to do lots of parallel walks with bag of treats to use when she ran into other dogs and kids. The dog would stop eating the treats and STILL lunge at any dog they encountered. I guess he saw them as a dessert after those yummy treats. Again, there was no common sense behind the behaviorist's advice, was there?

When in doubt, always ask yourself: Does this seem rational? Am I getting anywhere with this? Are people going to laugh at me?

Even with what you read in my book or on my website, observe it with an open mind and maybe TRY it first, and then be the judge. Once you try something, then you can be certain whether it did or did not work for you and your dog. Otherwise you are just relying on assumptions instead of facts. The same rule applies if you are instructed by your trainer, see it on television, were instructed by your trainer in a group class, or even if it comes from someone with a Ph.D. you need to stop and ask yourself where's the logic and practicality behind their advice? Be smart about it and don't let others brainwash you by trying methods that have no rationality to support them. Smart trainers don't mind asking you, "Does this make sense to you?" or "Do you see the logic behind what we are trying to accomplish?" Again, if it doesn't make any sense, please don't make a fool out of yourself.

Smart Dogs - Dumb Trainers:

Trainers who recommend that you should bark at your dog, growl at your dog, yelp like a dog, or ignore your dog's bad habits such as jumping up on you, barking at you, don't make sense and their tactics won't work. If they do, knock yourself out. Folks, we were taught to use common sense from a very early age in kindergarten. In case you forgot, the teaching was:

"Stop and Think." It wasn't "Go for it Chopper! Then we'll think of the consequence." (Now for some of us, getting the lesson afterward works much better. I guess as long as we "get it" that's all it really matters, doesn't it?)

3. They Have an Uncanny Ability to Pay Attention to Details

Yes, details my dog-loving friend. These experts are like a sponge and absorb everything and hardly miss even the smallest details. ( I've been told that I'm like that. Just in case it will come as a shock for those of you who prefer to hire me in person.) Whether people request that I go to them or if they prefer to send their dogs to me to be trained or rehabilitated, like a skilled crime scene investigator, I'll ask questions and then observe everything for myself, and I do mean EVERYTHING. By now, you should have gotten an idea of what I'm referring to by paying attention to details. If not, please be sure to read the chapter on (Questions you need to ask before hiring ANY expert.) But let me be a bit specific. I observe your technique, your posture, voice tone, attitude and overall perception. Are you firm, easy-going, loud, harsh, stubborn or depending on your mood, a mixture of all? How about too nervous, scared or maybe you think that saying "NO" to your dog might hurt his feelings and we may never see that tail wag again?

The importance of such details is why I cannot emphasize enough how crucial working with an expert in "private" really is. Because of my attention to details, even if I train your dog WITHOUT your involvement, I'll still manage to accomplish much more compared to a group class full of twenty dogs.

All the topnotch trainers you study, you'll notice that every single one of them have trained their own dogs WITHOUT any distractions first. So why should it be any different with you?

Dog/Child Interaction: How to Develop a Safe Relationship

Dog-child interaction is the single most important issue to deal with if you have a child and a dog. Children love dogs but dogs don't always love children. When you bring home a new puppy, your child should be trained together with your dog. Dog owners need to remember that it takes two to tango. Children aren't often taught how to treat a new doggy which can make his life a living hell. This is not only torment for your dog but can be dangerous to your child. Never trust your child alone with ANY dog, regardless of how gentle that dog is known to be. A child tends to know just which buttons to press to turn the gentlest animal into a dangerous beast. Most dogs initially feel threatened by a child because they are at eye level, they have high-pitched voices and make vigorous movements. The dog senses that the child is somewhat unpredictable. Dog-child interaction should be monitored in order to make sure that child and your dog are getting along.

What you should teach your child

• Do not let your child hug the dog until the dog-child relationship has developed and they've become comfortable with each other.
• Children are accustomed to showing their affection with a hug, but some dogs will tolerate it while others will not.
• Never approach a strange dog without asking the owner if it is o.k. to do so.
• Allow the dog to sniff you before you try to pat him.
• Stay away from stray dogs. A stray dog may carry disease or try to attack.
• Never scream or run away from a dog. This will only start a chase.
• Never run towards a dog or around a dog.
• Never approach a dog face to face. This is threatening to them. Always approach a dog from the side. This will allow the dog-child relationship to develop.
• Never look a dog square in the eyes.
• Never tease or hit a dog whether he's loose, tied up, behind a fence or in a crate.
• Never play rough games with a dog, such as tug-of-war. This will encourage a dog to become aggressive.
• Never pat a dog on the head. Always approach him under the chin or on his back.
• Never bother a sleeping dog.
• Never bother the dog while he's eating or chewing his favorite bone.
• A dog is not a toy. Never yank on his ears or pull his tail.
• If a dog poses a threat, teach your child to stay perfectly still with arms at the side, avoid eye contact, don't scream. If there is no one around who can pull the dog away, have your child use a jacket, schoolbag, garbage can cover, or anything he can find as a shield while backing away from the dog slowly.
• If a dog has knocked your child to the ground, he should curl up into a ball with his hands behind his head to protect his face.
• Never give the dog table food.
• Always play with your dog under adult supervision.
• Always be kind to your dog. This will help develop a dog-child friendship.
• Always protect your dog from harm.

What you should know as a dog owner

• Begin obedience training your dog as soon as possible. Don't wait til he gets older, it'll only get harder.
• Never leave your child alone with the dog.
• Never let your child walk the dog alone.
• Never tie up your dog. Provide your dog with a fenced-in space instead.
• Socialize your dog. Get him acquainted with other dogs as early as possible. You should also get him familiar with everything in his environment, both indoors and outdoors. This is key in attempting to establish a great dog-child relationship.
• Reward your dog for good behavior with praise and a treat.
• If you leave your dog in the yard, make sure your fence does not have spaces large enough for a child to stick their hands through.
• Never allow your child to abuse the dog in any way. This will never enable a dog-child relationship to flourish.
• Give your dog a space to call his own to which he can retreat to if he is feeling bothered (such as a crate).
• Do not allow your child to invade your dog's space especially while your dog is eating.
• Get your dog used to being touched on all body parts. This will make him more comfortable around children.
• Teach your dog to maintain a good temperament in the case of having his food bowl taken away while he's eating or removing a chew toy from his mouth. This will allow your dog to be more comfortable having a child around when he's eating or chewing on his favorite toy.
• Teach your child how to properly handle the dog/puppy.
• Walk your dog on a leash. Do not allow him to roam free.
• Keep in mind that just because your dog is wonderful around your own children doesn't mean he will tolerate other children the same way.
• Spay/neuter your dog.

If you have a dog and are expecting a baby

First off, if you haven't read the information above this subhead, go up and do so now. The above information will provide you with all the do's and dont's in preparing your dog for an addition to the family. If your dog has never been around a child for a long period of time, you will have the next nine months to get him used to it. Dog-child interaction is crucial at this stage.

Invite a niece, nephew, cousin, neighbor, etc. over for a few hours a week (Preferably a child who still wears a diaper. This will get the dog used to baby smell as well).

This idea satisfies two objectives: it will get your dog used to having a child around; and will develop your dog's behavior in such a way which allows him to have a dog-child relationship with almost any child. Teach your dog how to behave around a child using much of the information discussed above.

Do not wait until the baby is born in order to make adjustments. Try to make as many adjustments as you can before the baby arrives, this way he won't be hit with all these changes at once. For instance, if you will have to move furniture around to accommodate a high chair or a playpen, this may affect the placement of your dog's bed and bowl. If so, make this move before the baby arrives. This will lessen the impact it will have on your dog and is less likely to affect the dog-child relationship.

Once you have the nursery set up for the baby, teach your dog that he will not be allowed in the room, at all. If he learns this before the baby comes, it will lessen the dog's resentment towards the baby.

Get your dog used to the sounds a baby makes by playing a recording of a baby cooing and crying. Play this recording in the nursery in order to indicate to your dog where exactly he can expect these sounds to be coming from.

Make accommodations for your dog for the day you go into labor. He may have to spend hours alone before daddy's comes home from the hospital.

When it's time to bring the baby home, have someone go into another room with the dog while you put the baby down and get settled. Then bring the baby out and introduce the dog to the baby. The dog will probably give the baby a sniff or two and seek your attention. After all, he hasn't seen you in days. At this point, it would be a good idea to put the baby down and spend some time playing with the dog. Show him he's still loved. This will aid in the development of the dog-child relationship.

Your dog may require some extra attention in the first days of welcoming the baby. This will keep him from resenting the baby for stealing all the attention. Give him your undivided attention.

Allow your dog to be present when changing or feeding the baby.

Never yell at your dog for getting too close to the baby. Allow him to sniff the baby in order to get used to his scent. Make sure this is done under strict supervision. This will help nourish the dog-child relationship.

As the baby gets older, you will teach him to respect the dog and be gentle towards him.

Get your child to help you with dog chores, such as feeding and walking the dog.

Before your know it, a natural dog-child bond will form which will give them a long-lasting friendship for years to come.

Help your child and your dog live in perfect harmony by adhering to these simple rules. Once a good dog-child relationship has been established, this bond will last a lifetime.

If you have trouble controlling your dog, you should bring your dog (and your child) to an obedience class to help you get started.

What Supplies Will You Need for a Dog?

The time has come. You have stopped by the pet shop every day on the way home from work to dote on the cute puppies in the window. Normally you return home with the thoughts of a cute puppy scampering down your hallways. Well, today you did it. You decided to purchase your very own puppy. However, before you bring your puppy home you need to be prepared. You need to purchase various dog supplies so that you can provide a welcoming home to your new dog.

What types of dog supplies do you need? There is a bounty of dog supplies available on the market today. The dog supplies range from basic necessities such as dog food to cute dog costumes. Dog supplies have become such a hot market today that numerous pet supply companies have popped up to meet any needs you have for dog supplies. This competition in the market place is a benefit to you because often times you can find great prices on dog supplies by doing a little market research.

Let's first take a look at the basic dog supplies that you will want to have when your pooch arrives home. Basic dog supplies include: dog food, dog bowls, collar, leash, kennel/crate, and dog bed. Dog food is number one on the list because you shouldn't feed your canine table scraps or your own dinner. You can place their food in regular bowls, but it is fun to search for a cute dog bowl. You can find dog bowls that even have their name on it.

Dogs have specific nutritional needs to need to be met so they grow up strong and have a healthy life. Proper dog supplies include the dog food that is geared towards their age, weight/size, and activity level. It is vital to maintain the proper weight for your dog's size and breed. Table scraps and human food can lead to excess weight that is a detriment to your dog's overall health. Not to mention they might have some unsightly waste products as a result of the human food.

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When searching for dog food from your dog supplies list it is crucial that you find the right dog food. Check with a veterinarian, breeder, or dog shop owner for recommendations on the proper food. Dogs also will become used to their specific brand and type of dog food and if you suddenly change it they may suffer from upset stomach. Since they will be on the dog food for a long time it is a great idea to spend time finding the proper dog food for your pooch.

A dog collar and a dog leash should be next on your list of dog supplies. Many states require that you register your pet with the state. In addition you may need to demonstrate that your dog has had the required vaccines, such as rabies shots, and they must wear a tag on their collar regarding this. Also create a dog tag that has your dog's name on it, your name, and phone number in case your dog ever gets lost.

Most cities require that your dog be on a leash through various leash laws. Keeping your dog on a leash is a smart idea especially when you head out to parks or walk along the road. You don't want your pooch to bother other people or run out in front of an oncoming car. These scary situations can be avoided by using a leash to control your dog's movement. Leashes are also a training tool which you can use to teach your dog the proper behavior for their daily walk.

Dog supplies have improved over the years especially regarding different types of leashes. Does your dog constantly pull away from you on the leash causing them to cough? If so, you can buy a least that doesn't connect to just their collar, but is instead a harness that wraps around their entire body. You slip their legs through it. This type of leash can be much more comfortable for your dog, so consider it when looking for dog supplies.

8 Tips on How to Train a Dog

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Having a dog as your companion can be a true joy. However, you don't want your beloved buddy chewing your new shoes or going to the bathroom in the house. Therefore, you need to create a dog training plan to help your new puppy or dog understand the rules of the house.

What things should you focus on in dog training when you want your dog to understand the expected behaviors and even some fun tricks? Should you take dog training classes or complete dog training all on your own? The answer to these questions is that it depends. Take a look at the following dog training options to determine what type of dog training you want to provide for your canine best friend.

Possible dog training options include: a beginning obedience class that you can take through your local human society, dog supply stores such as PETCO, community recreation departments, and local colleges. These dog training classes can vary in price, time commitment, and personal attention. They are usually affordable and meet once a week at a community park. It is a great way to not only have your dog experience basic dog training, but socialize with other dogs as well.

If you have the financial resources and time you can hire a personal dog trainer. This type of trainer may be necessary if your pooch is having a hard time in basic classes and your dog training efforts aren't making a difference. Before you invest in a private dog trainer it is important to make an accurate assessment of your dog training methods. Often times a dog that is not following directions is the result of the poor dog training by the dog's owner.

A private dog trainer might be necessary if you are going to show your dog at dog shows. You can hire a dog trainer/handler or you can become one yourself. If you do, you must know the proper dog training techniques. You don't want to have Fido jump up on the judges during the competition so he must be trained thoroughly and correctly.

You can also search through dog training books, guides, and various resources. There are products that will help you complete dog training such as special collars and muzzles. You can effectively go through a dog training regime with your canine if you follow these eight dog training tips.

Tip #1: Many people start their dog on the path to dog training success by enrolling them in a basic obedience class. This is a great idea because you will learn how to teach your do basic commands such as "sit", "stay", and "heel".

You can teach these dog training commands by using verbal commands and physical actions. For example, right after you say the word "sit" you gently push your dog's bottom down onto the ground and put them in the sit position. Immediately say "good" and smile. Give them a tasty treat as well. Basically, you want to do as much as you can to reinforce the action of sitting when you say "sit".

Tip #2: Dogs act like absorbent sponges when it comes to learning proper behavior and tricks. If you do your job properly then dog training should be a hit. Your dog is ready and eager to learn proper behavior. They want to please you. Therefore, if they aren't following your instruction it might not be their fault. You might be giving confusing dog training instructions.

Tip #3: Dogs thrive on positive reinforcement and encouragement. Positive reinforcement such as acting excited and petting your dog when they do the right behavior help with your dog training efforts. It is a dogâÂ(TM)s nature to want to be close to you and make you happy. Showing encouragement and praise will help your dog much farther, much faster in their dog training. Make sure to encourage a dog through each dog training accomplishment, no matter how big or small.

Tip #4: Food is a powerful motivator when it comes to dog training. You will be hard pressed to find a dog that passes up food or a tasty treat. Dogs are always hungry and welcome any situation where food is involved.

Is A Premium Dog Food Really That Much Better For Your Dog?

==========The Scoop on Premium Dog Food========

If you're interested in premium dog food, then I probably don't have to tell you about the importance of diet in keeping your dog active and healthy. You already know you want something better than "average" for your furry friend.

But how much do you really know about what's in a premium food and what your particular pet's needs are? I'm no veterinarian but I do know a thing or two about health and nutrition. (As a family dentist who practiced for twenty years, I saw first hand the effects of poor dietary habits on human health -- and particularly on human teeth!!).

Like you, your dog has to deal with the effects of stress, age, exertion, a polluted environment, and foods grown in nutrient-depleted soils. Unlike you, he has to get practically all of his nutrition from a single food. Sure, you may give him a few treats or the occasional table scrap (not too many I hope!), but otherwise he's eating out of the same bag or can day in and day out. You want him to get complete nutrition out of that one food.

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===========Complete Nutrition?===============

Even the experts seem to disagree on exactly what complete nutrition is. Maybe this explains why there are so many formulas for premium dog food out there. There's one thing they do agree on, though: premium dog food is better for your pet than economy and grocery store brands. Although you'll pay more, it usually holds true that you get what you pay for.

Experts also agree that, because premium foods are more nutritionally dense and easier to digest, your dog won't need to eat as much. One study even concluded that if you fed your dog the recommended amounts on each package, you'd end up saving money on the premium formulas. That's because your dog needs to eat a lot less of it. (You'll save on pooper scoopers too!)

Another way to know if your dog is getting a proper diet is simply to observe him. Are his eyes bright, his coat silky and shiny, and his skin free from dryness and itching? Is he at a healthy weight? How about his energy level? This may vary from one animal to another, but as you get to know yours, you'll know when your dog isn't feeling up to par.

Of course, any persistent health problems should be looked into by your vet, and the same goes for any special dietary needs. But in general you'll know if your friend is doing well on the diet you're feeding him. If you see signs that he isn't, try a different formula or another brand of premium dog food.

Introduce new foods gradually, especially if you have a picky eater. And while we're on that subject, it's always nice if your dog enjoys eating his food. This has a lot less to do with taste than it does with smell. Dogs have fewer taste buds than we do, but about 40 times as many scent receptors. So make sure he eats with gusto, and doesn't just pick at his food.
Here are some basic guidelines you can follow:

============Essential Nutrients=============

Every dog needs the right amounts of proteins, carbohydrates, fats, vitamins, minerals, and water. Your dog must have all these in correct proportions to stay healthy. Needs vary with life stage, breed and activity level. Dog food companies make premium dog food for all life stages, from puppy to senior. An average adult dog needs a daily intake of about five ounces for every ten pounds of weight, with essential nutrients in the following proportions:

Protein --23% of total intake

Fats --5% of total intake

Carbohydrates --65% of total intake

The GSD History is of a Very Well Respected and Admired Dog Throughout the World

GSD history, relatively speaking when compared to many of the other breeds of dog, is still that of a very young breed. Captain Max von Stephanitz, a German cavalry officer, developed the German Shepherd Dog breed in 1899, based entirely on his vision of the perfect working dog, one type of dog which could work equally well under any conditions.

GSD history began in just this way. Using a variety of German sheep dogs as his foundation stock, Max von Stephanitz developed a new and distinctive working dog breed, the German Shepherd Dog.

He greatly admired the herding dogs of his native Germany, and believed they had the full potential to be the total all-purpose working dog. Max von Stephanitz was very aware of the historically declining need for herding dogs and believed that the working abilities of the breed would decline unless they were put to other uses.

An idealist with both strong intellect and the financial capabilities to support his iddas, Max von Stephanitz also possessed the determination, drive, and dedication to put his ideas into practice. His perception of a herding dog was of an extremely intelligent, vigorous dog, of stable character and with many of the physical attributes belonging to the wild dog- fleet of foot, long of wind, and untouched by the extremes of other breeds. He was well on his way to beginning the GSD history.

He saw no beauty in a non-functional dog and was ruthless in discarding what he considered weak. Tireless and determined, he laid the foundations of the GSD history that were later to make the breed the greatest all-round working dog in the world.

Until Horand, herding dogs came in a variety of shapes, sizes, types and abilities. Shepherds in Germany like elsewhere in the world, chose their dogs for their fitness, mental and physical, and for work only, and cared little for the dogs appearance. Max von Stephanitz had very positive ideas about the mental, anatomical, and bio- mechanical characteristics required of a herding dog. He had a great understanding of the mental and anatomical requirements of a working shepherd dog.

Very possibly by chance, the beginning of the GSD history started at a dog show in Germany. While at the dog show, a medium-sized yellow-and-gray wolflike dog caught the attention of von Stephanitz, attending the show with his friend Artur Meyer. This dog, Hektor Linksrheim, was immediately purchased by von Stephanitz and renamed Horand von Grafrath. Horand became the first registered German Shepherd Dog, with the number SV1.

Only weeks later von Stephanitz and his friend Artur Meyer founded the Verein für Deutsche Schaferhunde, or SV (German Shepherd Dog Club), along with the help of a few other co-founders. The dog club, the Verein für Deutsche Schäferhunde (SV), was to become the largest and most powerful dog breed club in the world and a major step in GSD history.

A standard for the GSD breed was soon developed based on mental stability and utility. The captain's motto was "Utility and intelligence". To him beauty was secondary, and considered a dog worthless if it lacked the intelligence, temperament, and structural efficiency that would make it a good servant of man.

The German Shepherd Dog breed standard was developed as a blueprint listing the exact function and relationship of every aspect of structure, gait, and inherent attitude, combined with a comprehensive breeding regulation, which required that dogs used for breeding had first to prove their worth physically and mentally.

Later, using the co-operation of local police and working dog clubs, a set of specific dog tests were developed in tracking, formal obedience, and protection work. This developed into present day Schutzhund dog trials - another important part of the GSD history. The authorities were persuaded to utilize the German Shepherd Dog in many branches of government service and served during the war as supply carriers, sentinels, Red Cross dogs, messenger dogs, tracking and guard dogs, to name a few.

The GSD historically was just gaining notice in the United States when World War I broke out. In 1917, when America entered World War I, all things German became tabu. The AKC changed the name of the dog breed to the Shepherd Dog and the German Shepherd Dog Club of America became the Shepherd Dog Club of America. In England, the name of the German Shepherd Dog breed was changed to the Alsatian.

After WWI, British and American soldiers, impressed by the abilities of the German Shepherd Dog, brought home examples of their own to breed. The dog breed instantly become popular, both as a family pet and as a working dog. After the war the movie star Rin-Tin-Tin and Strongheart stimulated interest in the GSD history and dog breed again.

Bad Dog, Bad Dog, Whatcha Gonna Do? Part 1

On a recent episode of "America's Funniest Home Videos," (AFV) one of the top three submissions for the $10,000 prize was a video of the aftermath of destruction a family's pet dog had done to their home. This dog had destroyed an end table, ripped the frame off a doorway, demolished a patio door screen and frame, shredded carpeting, broken glassware, and had literally "eaten" a three foot by four foot hole in the wall - destroying sheetrock, insulation, and framing in the process. He was a one dog demolition crew! I was horrified and appalled as I watched the video and listened to the mixture of giggles and gasps from the viewing audience. It was as if the poor, unsuspecting family shrugged their shoulders and said "Bad Dog, Bad Dog, Whatcha Gonna Do?"

The more appropriate question, however, is "My dog, my dog, WHY do you do what you do?" The answer to that question is not a simple one. Entire books have been written concerning "bad dog behavior." And the truth is that every dog is different, and therefore, there is no "pat answer" for every situation. However, a basic understanding of "Who dogs are, and How they behave" will lead us to some appropriate suggestions on how to handle difficult and domineering dogs. If you suffer from "Bad Dog Syndrome," this article will help you understand who your dog is (Alpha Dog Mentality), and teach you how to "reprogram" and your misbehaving dog. Soon you'll be saying "Good Dog, Good Dog, Oh how I love you!" You can find the follow-up article "Bad Dog, Bad Dog" Part 2, in the Feature Articles section at K-9 Outfitters, A Division of Damascus Road Enterprises.

But before we proceed, if you suffer from "bad dog syndrome" with your family pet, make sure there isn't an underlying medical condition. Take your dog to the vet, explain your problem, and ensure he/she is healthy, and doesn't suffer from dental, intestinal, digestion, parasitic, or other problems. Once you find that your dog is healthy, the following information should prove helpful.

Dogs are, by nature, pack animals. Pack animal behavior is instinctive from before dogs were domesticated and lived in the wild. Every pack has a hierarchy, and every animal in the pack has duties, responsibilities, and expectations. Since your dog doesn't live in the wild, he/she assumes you, your family, and other household pets make up the "pack." Many times, "bad dog behavior" is a result of confusion over "Alpha Dog Status" or "Alpha Dog Mentality." You must establish that you are the "Alpha" dog in the pack. You must also establish that other family members, to include the children, all rank higher in the pack than your dog does. There are many ways to effectively put your dog in his proper pack ranking. Here are a few suggestions, or rules, for handling domineering dogs, and establishing pack rankings:

1. When you enter the house, make sure your dog enters last, even if you must put her on a leash. This shows her where she ranks in the family "pack."

2. Alpha dogs want the run of the entire house. Make sure certain areas of the home are out of bounds for the dog. That may include certain bedrooms, the laundry room, bathrooms, or the den. This helps the dog know you are master of the house, not him.

3. Alpha dogs occupy high traffic areas, like hallways and entryways. Don't step over or go around the dog, nudge the dog and tell her to move out of your way, and make sure she does so. This lets her know who owns the space and who is in charge.

4. Don't allow your dog to DEMAND your attention. Dogs usually do this by climbing on your lap, or by nudging your hand or arm. Make the dog sit, lie down, etc., and then give lavish praise and attention. Remember, you control when you give your dog attention, affection, and praise.

5. Exercise control over your dog's possessions. Take away all her toys, then give her a command, and when she obeys, give her the toy as a treat. After she plays with it for awhile, take it away again.

6. When you come home, make your dog greet you first. Ignore him until he does. He must be submissive to you, not the other way around.

7. Establish dog eating times. In the pack, the Alpha dog always eats first, and then the other dogs eat. Make sure the family eats first, followed by the dog. If you must feed the dog first, pretend to eat something first, then feed your dog. Leave the dog's food out for 10-15 minutes, then take it up, whether the dog is finished or not. She will learn quickly to eat when fed.

Dog Aggression: How to Recognize & Respond

Many dog owners are bewildered when they hear their dog growl, bark, or take an aggressive stance. Unfortunately, many of these animals end up in shelters because the owners could no longer live with the dog. Would you give up on your child that easily?

Of course not! When a baby is brought home to his new family, everyone understands that the baby is learning your language and teaching you his. We begin to understand our child?s cry or garbled sounds because we focus on trying to understand him.

Your dog has his own language as well. Understanding dog aggression and your dog?s language will help prevent undesirable behavior and dog bites. Let?s begin our understanding of dog aggression with the acronym DOG BITES:

Dominant

Opportunity

Game

Boy/Girl

Injury

Territorial

Escape

Dominant aggression is also known as competitive aggression. It is brought on when one dog feels challenged for his social position by another dog (or human). Dogs are pack animals. Social order helps feed and protect the pack.

The dog with the highest social order is called the ?alpha? dog. The alpha dog gets all the perks such as eating whatever he wants, sleeping wherever he wants, and dictating to the others in the pack. He decides when the others get to eat and sleep.

Even owners of a single dog may observe dominant aggression since the dog sees the owner as a member of his pack. An example of this type of aggression is demonstrated by the dog who lays on a favorite chair and growls at the owner when told to get down.

The aggression is a challenge for social position and dibs for the seating arrangement. How the owner reacts to the challenge determines whether the dog becomes more aggressive or submissive in the situation.

Here?s a less obvious challenge to an owner?s dominance in the pack?

You are sitting in the living room watching television. Your dog comes up to you and slides his head under your hand. You think your dog is adorable and wants your attention, so you pet him as requested.

Here is the punch line to this situation. Petting is similar to licking. Submissive, less dominant dogs in the pack lick the more dominant dogs. In other words, you were challenged and responded with an OK to be the submissive of the challenge.

Petting (or licking) behavior does not always signify submissiveness. There are other situations when dogs lick, but we will not pursue that topic here. What we will offer here is a suggestion on how to respond to the situation above.

Gently cup your hand over your dog?s muzzle. Rub behind his ears with a little pressure. These actions closely resemble social order biting. Dominant dogs bite the ears, nose, and neck areas of less dominant dogs to keep them in line. Just watch a mother dog with a litter of pups! You?ll see the behavior right away.

Opportunity aggression is aggression that is intended for another dog or person; however, it is redirected to a closer dog or person because the opportunity to attack is better. An example of this type of aggression is demonstrated when trying to break up two fighting dogs. Sometimes, the person breaking up the fight gets bit.

Caution is the best approach to take with opportunity or redirected aggression. If a dog is agitated, it is better to maintain a safe distance until the dog feels less vulnerable and relaxes.

Game aggression is predatory in nature. A dog will chase anything that moves away from it. The dog is a natural hunter of small game. When something runs from a dog, the dog?s chase, hunt, capture, and kill instinct takes over.

A human cannot out run a dog. If a dog attacks, the best course of action is to lie down and play dead. This action is a submissive move.

You have probably seen a dog lie down and bear his vulnerable belly to a more dominant dog. He is communicating to the more dominant dog that he is not a threat to the more dominant dog.

Boy/girl aggression is all about the hormones! This type of aggression is also known as sexual aggression. The male dog protects his female from other dogs and potential threats to his progeny.

Female dogs, however, also display this sexual aggression when they are pregnant, nursing, or in heat. Even the most docile female may growl or attempt to bite anyone who dares to pick up one of her pups too soon!

Sexual aggression is reduced through spaying and neutering. Most veterinarians recommend spaying or neutering your dog during the 6-12 months of age.

Injury aggression is aggression brought on by injury or pain. You might easily see this type of aggression in a dog that has been hit by a car or one who is suffering from age-induced arthritis.

Injury or pain aggression is best handled by seeking medical care for the dog. Try not to touch the painful areas unless absolutely necessary for therapy or to get your dog to safety. Diet, activity, medications, and bedding may help alleviate the pain and therefore, the aggressive behavior.

Territorial aggression is aggression displayed to protect the pack?s territory. The dog?s territory may be much different from your thoughts of the house and backyard. Indeed, if you take him on any walks, he may even consider the whole neighborhood his territory!

When a dog is in a new environment, he may be ?territorial? because he isn?t sure of his surroundings. This is why a dog that is boarded may be ?cage aggressive.? The dog is protecting the small territory of the cage from intruders.

When this is the case, let the dog have his space. He is stressed out and will feel protected in his own area.

Territorial aggression may also be used to protect the pack from perceived external threats. A protective dog is one that shows aggression toward other animals or people when he perceives a threat to his owner or other members of the pack.

A dog may also show territorial aggression with possessions. He will protect anything that he perceives as his. This includes food, bedding, toys, affection, and anything else that is part of his world.

Escape aggression is also called fear aggression. A dog that is afraid will often shake. The ears will probably be all the way back on the head and the tail will be low. He feels powerless and puts up a fight because he feels trapped like he has no where to escape.

This type of aggression may also be brought on by the fear of punishment. Imagine someone standing much taller than you with his hand raised above his head. Is he going to hit me?

Basic Backyard Bird Feeder Guide - Six Feeders You Need to Have

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1.Backyard birds have different feeding requirements. Different styles of feeders will attract different and a larger variety of birds to your backyard. These are the basic bird feeders for an all around good backyard bird feeding program:

Seed Tube Bird Feeder: Open port seed tube bird feeders are considered exclusive bird feeders meaning, they exclude many larger birds. These feeders primarily attract a variety of smaller birds. However, when a seed saver tray is added, it will allow larger birds a place to perch and feed.

• Exclusive bird feeder. Excludes larger birds. Primarily feeds smaller birds such as chickadees, finch, and nuthatches.
• Made from a variety of materials. (PVC, Polycarbonate, steel, acrylic) Most PVC and Polycarbonate tubes carry a lifetime guarantee.
• Preferred feed to use is black oil sunflower seed, sunflower hearts, safflower seed, or other nut based mixes.
• Easily hung, but can be post mounted.
• Seed saver trays can be attached to the bottoms.
• A good starter feeder for the backyard

Nyjer Thistle: A very specialized feeder for Nyjer thistle or finch mixes which primarily attracts birds of the finch family such as Goldfinch, House Finch, Purple Finch and Pine Siskin. Indigo Buntings will feed on these feeders if those birds are in your area.

• A tube feeder that is designed for feeding Nyjer thistle, a small imported seed.
• Attracts goldfinch, house finch, pine siskin, purple finch. Indigo buntings and other finch like birds.
• Made from a variety of materials.(PVC, Polycarbonate, steel, acrylic, and wood. PVC and Polycarbonate tubes usually carry a lifetime guarantee.)
• Use Nyjer thistle or a quality finch mix.(Best Finch Mix: 50% Nyjer seed and 50% fine sunflower chips.)
• Hang thistle feeders near small bushes or trees with lower branches.

Hopper Bird Feeders: This is a good all around feeder for attracting a variety of both large and small backyard feeder birds. It is considered a non-exclusive bird feeder since it does not exclude any birds. If the feeding area is large enough occasionally ground feeding birds will feed on this type of feeder, especially if the ground is covered with snow or ice.

• Non-exclusive feeder which attracts both large and small birds.
• Storage capacity for holding quantities of feed.
• Available in a variety of durable materials. (Cedar, metal, recycled plastic, acrylic)
• Recommended feeds: black oil sunflower seed, safflower seed or any nut based mix combination.
• Can be hung or post mounted.
• Good basic backyard bird feeder.

Platform Bird Feeders: Elevated platform bird feeders are another of the non-exclusive bird feeders. It does not exclude any birds. Large and small birds alike can access it very easily along with some birds that typically feed on the ground.

• A non-exclusive bird feeder that is very versatile.
• Can be hung or mounted on a pole or post. Some have a roof to protect the seed from inclement weather. Screen or perforated steel or nylon bottoms prevent water from accumulating in the feeder and helps to dry out seed if it becomes wet.
• Available in a variety of durable materials. (Cedar, metal, recycled plastic and acrylic)
• Recommended feeds: Black oil sunflower seed, safflower seed, sunflower hearts, or any nut based mix combination. Also a good feeder to use with general wild bird mixes.
• Excellent bird feeder for peanuts in the shell, meal worms, and fruits.

Ground Feeders: Ground bird feeders are the perfect feeder for ground foraging birds such as native sparrows, juncos and doves. Also attractive to the more opportunistic birds such as Cardinals and Jays. These feeders keep the bird seed off the ground reducing spoilage. Besides being more sanitary for the birds it is also keeps debris off the ground and is easier to dispose of the shells.

• Ground feeders are just that, feeders which sit on or near to the ground for ground foraging birds such as mourning doves, native sparrows, Juncos, and towhees.
• Screen or perforated bottoms prevent water from standing in the feeder and allows the seed to air dry after rain & snow. Available with or without roofs.
• Use safflower seed and white Proso millet in this feeder which will attract a variety of the birds you prefer while deterring squirrels and the Common Grackles. (A good feeder for general wild bird mixes if squirrels are not a problem.)
• A variety of other birds will also feed at ground level such as northern cardinals and house finch.
• Keeps seed off the ground to prevent spoiling.
• Can be located under an existing feeder to catch seeds dropped by birds.

Suet Bird Feeders: Suet bird feeders using either commercial suets, or suet from your local meat market, provide a great source of year round protein. Placed on or near a tree this feeder will attract Nut Hatches, Brown Creepers, Chickadees, and a variety of woodpeckers. Wrens will occasionally feed on the suet as well. Suet is in high demand for these birds during the spring and summer months.

• Suet is for the birds of the tree trunk zone.
• Commercial suets of 100% rendered beef fat are preferred. There is a large variety of commercial suets which contain various products from seeds and nuts to fruits mixed into 100% tallow.Pure suets, mixtures which do not contain nuts, seed and other products are least attractive to squirrels and European Starlings.
• Feed suet year round. Although it provides a great source of energy during the winter months, birds will actually consume more animal protein between March and August during the stresses of nesting and raising their young. Oftentimes woodpeckers will bring their young to the suet feeder once they have fledged the nest.
• Up-side down suet feeders will help to reduce Starlings from over-powering the feeder. Suet feeders surrounded by cages will repel Starlings as well as squirrels.
• If using a simple hanging wire suet basket, simply leave the hard plastic shell on the suet cake so the suet is only exposed one side. Then hang the basket at a steep angle or directly upside down. If Starlings land on the top they cannot peck through the plastic shell.

2. General wild bird mixes are best placed on or near the ground for ground feeding birds. Reserve elevated feeders for the nuts or nut based mixes. Avoid general bird mixes containing Milo, red millet or wheat. These are filler seeds which bulk up the weight thus lowering the price. While game birds and house sparrows consume these products they are not desired by song birds. Read the label for key ingredients.

3. Thistle seed has an extremely short shelf life of 3 to 5 months. This is the result of heat sterilization of the imported seed by the USDA. This method is used to avoid introducing non-native plants into North America. A newly purchased bag of thistle seed does not guarantee freshness since many merchants may stock large quantities for long periods of time. Songbirds will reject feeders containing old thistle seed is the primary cause in failing to attract birds to a thistle feeder. Inquire about the freshness of the seed you purchase, or purchase from reputable suppliers.

4. To deter squirrels and grackles, use safflower seed by itself in any of the bird feeders with the exception of thistle tube feeders. Safflower seed is attractive to cardinals, house finch, chickadees, doves and other birds, yet grackles rarely feed on it if at all. A feeder filled with safflower seed may be hung in a tree next to a squirrels nest and they will totally ignore it. Make it a part of you feeding program. It may take up to a week for your birds to become accustomed to safflower seed if it has never been offered to them before.

5. Although winter is the traditional bird feeding period, many people have established year round bird feeding programs. Natural foods become scarce after winter until a new crop of seeds and berries ripen in late summer. Wildlife biologists have found that birds nest earlier, quicker, and have more successful nestings when supplemental foods are offered. This is due to less time spent foraging and competing for low food reserves after winter. For example: Woodpeckers during the nesting season eat more suet between March and July than all winter long. You can attract a large variety of birds through-out the year by establishing a year round bird feeding program.

6. Providing a fresh source of water for birds is an important feature during all seasons. Puddles of rain water contain pollutants and toxins that are harmful to birds. In winter, open water is a rare commodity. Searching for water in frigid temperatures can waste precious energy needed to get birds through cold winter nights. And clean feathers provide valuable insulation to help keep them warm. Motion created in water, either by a waterfall or a dripper, attracts high flying birds, and is heard at a great distance.