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Decorative Bird Feeders: Sanctuary for Birds, Good Sights for Spectators

More and more people are starting to get into feeding wild birds in their yards and gardens. That is because wild birds, even how wild they may tend to be, would always return to that especially allotted spot where they can find great seeds to eat.

Bright and lively groups of birds, flying around the bird feeder is also a great, amusing and relaxing sight to see. That can be one of the logical reasons why there is a rising number of people who are getting more and more interested at investing in decorative bird feeders.

In the past years, people from several countries had become fond of attending to homing pigeons. Now, it is not only pigeons that are catching the attention of people who invest in bird feeders. Other wild birds can also be served by wild bird feeders.

Decorative

Because people would not get anything from their investment at bird feeders aside from the pretty sight of birds coming home and feeding the communal food served to them, bird feeder makers have started making the structures as beautiful as possible to further spice up the sight.

Nowadays, you could see bird feeders that are decoratively designed so that the structures alone are already a pretty good sight to look at. Them having birds would extremely be a pleasure for observers.

There are a number of specialty shops and bird feeder manufacturers which currently distribute decorative wild bird feeders. You would surely be amazed at how these feeders look like. They are in the form of real home structures, and the designs are truly profound and extravagant.

There are special decorative bird feeders that actually costs a lot more expensive than the average home for people. Also take note that several decorative bird feeders are actually designed by good architects and are built from the finest and most flexible raw materials.

Fun collection

Decorative bird feeders can also be fun to collect. Such collections would surely be fun, because they are not just aesthetic, these objects are also extremely useful, especially to birds.

People are greatly admiring the beauty of decorative bird feeders, which become host to a number of colorful and different breeds and seizes of different types of birds.

Each season, there may be different types of birds that may swoon in and troupe around the special bird structures. It is such sights that make collecting decorative bird feeders very much fun.

Migrating birds

The most usual beneficiaries of the decorative bird feeders are the migratory birds who flock out of their area origins during winter. Not only would you be providing food to such migratory organisms. You would also be providing them with temporary shelter or resting place where they can recharge after flying thousands of miles.

Spectators also gaze up and enjoy the event. That way, you would not only help the birds, but also those people, who, even for a few minutes, are relieved of the burdens of their personal problems by being entertained by the breath-taking scenery.

Decorative bird feeders add to the attraction of the bird feeding sight. Find one and see for yourself how your day would be made even brighter by the simple joy and admiration you may derive from simply looking at a bird feeder.

Binoculars and Bird Watching: Using the Right Binoculars the Right Way

Binoculars and bird watching go hand in hand together. While binoculars are not a requirement for bird watching, they are in fact the number one tool a bird watcher will need. The great thing about bird watching though, as opposed to other outdoor activities, is the fact that binoculars are all you will ever really need. Of course there are other items that you can invest in that will enhance your bird watching experience, such as a spotting scope, digital camera, and digiscoping adapters. But to get started, your first investment should definitely be a quality set of Binoculars.

When choosing the best binoculars for bird watching, the number one thing to consider is your budget. Your budget will determine the quality of binoculars you are in the market for. As with all optics equipment, as quality goes up, price follows. In fact, in most cases, price rises faster than quality demonstrating a law of diminishing returns. In most cases, $500 binoculars will be about twice as good as $250 binoculars; but $1,000 dollar binoculars will most likely be not be twice as good as $500 binoculars. The difference is even less between $2,000 and $1,000 binoculars. Still though, there is a difference between all of these; it is a difference you will have to pay for. Just remember the following quote and you will be fine:

The best rule of thumb in buying binoculars is to go with the best binoculars for bird watching you can afford because you get what you pay for.

The Best Size Binoculars for Bird Watching

There are many different sizes of binoculars on the market today from 6x50mm to 12x20mm and everything in between. This can make for a tough decision for first time buyers when looking for the best binoculars for bird watching. To make things a whole lot easier, remember that most experienced users of binoculars will agree that the best binoculars have a magnification of 10 power and an objective of 40mm - 42mm. This is spelled out as 10X40mm or 10X42mm. Of course this is open to debate and some will argue to go with less magnification and/or a bigger objective lens. But again, most will agree that 10X42mm binoculars will be the best compromise between size, magnification, field of view, and comfort.

Beginning with Quality Binoculars

Unless of course you can afford it, it might not be a good idea to rush out and buy the best binoculars for bird watching. The thing is that you may find that bird watching is not that exciting to you and then you have high dollar binoculars that do not get used for the reason you bought them. All is not lost though, because throughout life you will have times when fine optics would come in handy. If you are considering bird watching, then chances are you spend some time in the outdoors, or would like to, and you will have a need for binoculars for the rest of your life.

Like wise, you should not buy cheap binoculars for bird watching either. For one thing, if you find birding to be as addicting as we do, then you will get tons of use out of your binoculars. If you started out with cheap binoculars, then you will undoubtedly regret the purchase, and or buying a higher quality binocular later, costing you more in the long run. That is why we go by the saying (and I will say it again): Go with the best binoculars for bird watching that you can afford, because you get what you pay for. It is amazing how much a quality set of binoculars, like any listed above, enhances birdwatching over cheap binoculars.

Other Bird Watching Equipment:

Binoculars are the first piece of equipment you will need to begin enjoying bird watching. Of course binoculars are just the beginning; there are several other items that you may determine to be necessary depending on how far you decide to take this hobby. Spotting scope, cameras, digiscope adapters, bird books, video cameras, and bird feeders are just a few that come to mind (click on the link to view the best of each in their price range).

Spotting Scope: A very popular tool to most hardcore bird watchers as it enables one to view wildlife with a great deal of magnification with the use of a tripod so the view is steady. The average magnification range is around 20-60 power with an objective lens of 60-80mm. With these types of numbers you can only imagine how well you can view birds: up close with lots of light. A spotting scope is a very valuable tool for bird watchers and can really enhance the experience. Of course this is another expense, and they can get expensive.

The Highs and Lows of Bird Watching:

Like most wildlife viewing, there are both slow and fast times. There are some times when you just aren't finding the birds you would like to. For some of us hardcore bird watchers, its these slow times when the birds are a challenge to find that make the good times even better. Unfortunately though, it is these slow times that often turn people off to bird watching. If you are just beginning, and especially going at it alone or with other non experienced bird watchers, then these slow times can be quite the norm. That is why it is advised that you go with an experienced bird watcher that knows the area and can show you spots that you will be able to consistently see intriguing birds in their natural state.

Ways to find birds:

• In most areas, there are birdwatching clubs that you can join. These are not only a good way to see birds, but also a good way to meet like minded people.
• Get information from people in a bird club on other areas you can checkout on your own, but with a little direction that will make things much easier.
• Hire a guide: most areas have some type of nature guides that can take you to areas where there are large numbers of neat birds to see. Be sure to ask a lot of questions and try to establish some other areas where the guide can suggest you check on your own time. It is likely there is not enough time for the guide to take you to all the good birding areas in one day. If you like your guide, set up another date when he or her could take you on another bird watching adventure.

Dog Aggression - Understanding Why?

Aggression is one of the main reasons that dogs are euthanised or rehomed; at least 30% of all dogs in rescue centres are there because of the incidence of aggressive behaviour in one form or another. It is actually unusual to have a dog that is aggressing to have just one type of aggression; most dogs have more than one of the following types of behaviour.

It would be prudent, before embarking on a program of aggressive behaviour modification, to rule out any medical reasons for that behaviour, especially if there is a sudden change in the dog's temperament. Their are some fifty-odd different medical reasons why a dog may be showing aggressive tendencies, these range from Pain to Thyroid Dysfunction, Epilepsy to Hypoglycaemia and Diabetes.

The following is a list of the more common aggressions and why they may be occurring. This is only a part of the total types. Because of the constraints of space it can only be a fleeting reference.

1. Fear / Nervous Aggression (Interdog)

Quite often, this behaviour has its roots directly to the pup's mother. Breeders that breed from fearful and timid bitches will often make excuses as to why you cannot see the dam. If you do view a litter of puppies and the mother is fearful, then do not even think of buying the puppy. It will be almost a certainty that the pups will inherit some of the mother's traits, through both genetics and socialisation, genetically the pups may inherit her timidity and through the time they are with her will observe her fear and follow suit.

Scientific research has shown that even the pups that are born to a solid and stable mother that are then put with a bitch that is fearful, they will pick up some of the unstable habits from the fearful dog. Other reasons for this fear type of problem is when the puppy or adult dog is attacked by another dog, especially whilst on the lead, with no means of escape and restricted from showing submissive body language to the attacker.

Lack of early socialisation can also have an affect on this type of behaviour, If the young pup, especially between the age of seven and sixteen weeks, is not carefully socialised with both adult and pups alike, then they do not learn to "meet and greet". The complex body language dogs learn at this age is crucial to their later behaviour when approaching unknown dogs. If they are unable to either perform or understand the greeting rituals, then they are immediately viewed with suspicion by the approaching dog, and conflict may arise

How can you tell if it is fear?

With nervous and fear aggressive dogs, you will find that they will react aggressively to any dog, regardless of whether it is male or female. The behaviour is often worse if the dog is on the lead or is cornered, especially if close to the owner, who backs up the behaviour, (though unwittingly) by becoming nervous and agitated as the other dog approaches.

This manifests itself in a tightening up on the lead and shoulders. Nervous owners also kick out a cloud of adrenaline that the dog instantly detects, this causes it to look for what is causing the concern. It sees the dog approaching and reacts accordingly. This type of dog is also normally a barker, it will lunge and bark at the approaching dog but generally will not snap unless all its options have run out. ie flight or freeze and after all its threat posturing the other dog has still got too close.

This problem can often be diagnosed if someone who is confident around dogs (that the dog does not know well) takes it out on the lead. It will not get the same fearful vibes from the owner, therefore the reaction to another dogs approaching will be less intense. It is a good way of finding out if your dog suffers fear aggression, as the behaviour will either not be exhibited or will be less pronounced. The owner can then use a desensitisation program for both the dog and themselves.

2. Fear / Nervous Aggression (Inter-human)

Once again, this can be caused through lack of early socialisation, bad breeding and sometimes lack of handling at an early age, starting as young as two weeks old. Pups that are not handled gently and often by the breeder do not get a strong olfactory and tactile bond with humans. This is often the case with puppy farmed dogs and dogs born to large breeders. This handling at such an early age causes a mild stress response in the tiny pup, which benefits its ability to cope with many situations including people and dogs in later life

Nervous and fear aggressing is always defensive in nature, sometimes it is related to the sex of the person. If the breeder was female, and very few males visited or handled the puppies, then the timidity and fear may be worse with men. This particular problem like interdog hostility, will manifest itself mainly with individuals rather than crowds.

You will find that the dog will bark a lot but will be under a table or behind a settee. The tail will be down and although it may seem overtly aggressive, the dogs balance and weight will be on the back foot not over the front feet. This demonstrates that the dog wants you to go away and is not initially trying to bite or attack you. A gradual and careful introduction to the stimulus that is causing the fear with positive reinforcement for calm behaviour is the way to overcome this type of problem though the dog will rarely make a total and full recovery and will never be life and soul of the park and greeting parties.

3. Frustration Aggression

Research has shown that dogs who are not allowed to interact "normally" with people and dogs who were prone to displays of bad temper and behaviour that was overtly aggressive are dogs that are generally restrained or restricted from normal interactions (interactions with people, other dogs, and the outside world). The dog develops an intense desire to gain access to all of those things he desires.

This desire can escalate into escape and roaming behaviour, agitation, biting and unprovoked attacks. It is often observed in dogs that are left tied up in flats, left in gardens, or near a window where they can see the things they want to interact with, but cannot get to them therefore display unprovoked aggression. To some extent, the aggression shown to the postman is based on frustration. I have seen dogs attack their owner or a second dog in the home because it cannot get to the deliveryman.

As with most aggressive behaviours early socialisations and an understanding of how dogs learn and communicate are essential.

Does Your Dog Bite? How to Protect Your Dog and Yourself from Liability

MuttShack Foundation for Animal Foster and Rescue, claim that dogs bite more than 4.7 million people every year in the United States.

The blame could be the dog's, the owner's, or the victim's. But the one who invariably pays, is the owner. The owner of the dog becomes responsible for paying for the medical bills, time lost from work as well as pain and suffering. The one who suffers most, is the dog that is abandoned in a shelter or disposed of.

Dog owners should assume more than their share of the responsibility for protecting people and other animals from their dogs, and also assume the responsibility to protect their dogs from people. Kids will run up to a dog screaming in delight and frighten the dog. A dog in his excitement to greet someone may jump up and scratch him or her. A passer-by may approach a dog aggressively or provoke him. Neighborhood kids may let the dogs out just to have some fun.

There is no way to guarantee that your dog will never bite someone. But you can significantly reduce the risk:

o Spay or neuter your dog. This important and routine procedure will reduce your dog's desire to roam and fight with other dogs, making safe confinement an easier task. Spayed or neutered dogs are much less likely to bite.

o Socialize your dog. Introduce your dog to many different types of people and situations so that he or she is not nervous or frightened under normal social circumstances.

o Train your dog. Accompanying your dog to a training class is an excellent way to socialize him and to learn proper training techniques. Training your dog is a family matter. Every member of your household should learn the training techniques and participate in your dog's education. Never send your dog away to be trained; only you can teach your dog how to behave in your home. Note that training classes are a great investment even for experienced dog caregivers.

o Be alert with your dog around children. Rambunctious play may startle your dog, and he may react by snapping or biting. Neighborhood children may be attracted to your dog, so make sure you have a child-proof lock on your gate and there is no way for little hands to get through the fence.

o Teach your dog appropriate behavior. Never teach your dog to chase after or attack others, even in fun. Your dog can't always understand the difference between play and real-life situations. Set appropriate limits for your dog's behavior.

Don't wait for an accident.

The first time he exhibits dangerous behavior toward any person, seek professional help from your veterinarian, an animal behaviorist, or a qualified dog trainer. Dangerous behavior toward other animals may eventually lead to dangerous behavior toward people, and is also a reason to seek professional help.

o Be a responsible dog owner. License your dog as required by law, and provide regular veterinary care, including rabies vaccinations. For everyone's safety, don't allow your dog to roam alone. Make your dog a member of your family. Dogs who spend a great deal of time alone in the backyard or tied on a chain often become dangerous. Dogs who are well socialized and supervised are much less likely to bite.

o Stay on the safe side. If you don't know how your dog will react to a new situation, be cautious. If your dog may panic in crowds, leave him at home. If your dog overreacts to visitors or delivery or service personnel, keep him in another room. Work with professionals to help your dog become accustomed to these and other situations. Until you are confident of his behavior, however, avoid stressful settings.

I thought you said your dog doesn't bite? "That's not my dog" ... says Peter Sellers.

Seriously, if your dog bites someone, act responsibly; take these steps to mitigate the harm:

o Confine your dog immediately and check on the victim's condition. If necessary, seek medical help.

o Provide the victim with important information, such as the date of your dog's last rabies vaccination.

o You should cooperate fully with the animal control official responsible for acquiring information about your dog. If your dog must be quarantined for any length of time, ask whether he may be confined within your home or at your veterinarian's hospital. Strictly follow quarantine requirements for your dog.

Time to Bird Proof Your Property

It happened in Norway. Policewoman Jorun Lyngstad was just riding her bike through the woods when Europe's biggest game bird, a wood grouse, rammed her from the side and sent her flying through the air. With her foot stuck in one of the pedals, Lyngstad had to use her bike as a shield as she tried to fight off the aggressive bird, which repeatedly came at her. The policewoman finally pinned the bird's head underneath the bike's front wheel. Once released, the bird fled back into the woods. Lyngstad suffered only minor scratches and a big bruise in her side where the wood grouse rammed her. This is not surprising, since a wood grouse can be up to three feet tall and weigh close to nine pounds. Lyngstad, who was wearing a bright yellow vest at the time, said she couldn't understand what provoked the bird to attack her.

While most of ur don't have to worry about 9-pound birds knocking us off our bikes, smaller pest birds can knock us for a loop when it comes to property damage. Thousands of homeowners, boat owners, facilities managers and municipalities have suffered the ravages of pest birds. The nests, the droppings and the destruction and diseases they carry cost Americans millions annually. Many people have decided to fight back by bird proofing their property.

Modern Bird Proofing Methods

Today's bird proofing solutions combine technology with some good old-fashioned bird psychology to deter pest birds. The new breed of pest bird deterrents covers a wide spectrum of applications and bird types and sizes.

Yikes, it's Bird Spikes

First, and perhaps the most popular bird-proofing device is the highly effective Bird Spike. These spiked strips may look threatening, but the blunted spikes are safe for birds, people and pets. It's not hard to imagine how they work: they simply can't land on or near them. The spiked strips come with long-lasting stainless steel or rigid unbreakable polycarbonate spikes. Installation is fast and easy on virtually any flat surface or ledge.

There are several types of spikes for differing applications. The Mega Spike, for example, is considered the Godzilla of bird spikes. Its long spikes--typically 7" high--will persuade most seagulls, cormorants, turkey vultures, raptors and other large birds to move on. Mega spikes made of marine-grade stainless steel will last longer. Try to get spikes with a crush proof, non-reflective metal finish. The best bird proof spikes have a U.V.-protected polycarbonate base that you can angle to fit curved surfaces.

Want to keep pest birds and nests out of your rain gutters? Try the Gutter Spike. They work quite well in discouraging large pests like seagulls, crows, and pigeons from gutters. Like most bird spikes, gutter spikes usually come in two-foot long strips. The best come with adjustable clamps at the base for easy installation to the lip of a gutter.

Birds Hate Spiders Too

People aren't fond of spiders, and birds aren't fond of one particular spider--the Bird Spider. They hate the spindly arms of this novel device. The arms wave threateningly in the wind to scare birds away. You've probably seen these spiders on restaurant tables, canvas boat covers, awnings, patios and other flat surfaces. Bird spiders are available in a variety of arm lengths to scare away a wide range of species.

Bird Proofing with Safe Chemicals

Pest birds make us angry and cost us money, but we really don't want to hurt the little buggers. Which is why using lethal poisons are out and humane chemical methods are in. Enter Bird Foggers and Misters. These nifty systems spray a fine mist of food-grade methyl anthranilate. Basically a grape extract, this chemical is harmless to birds and humans, but it bugs the heck out of them when they fly through it. Fog/mist systems run the gamut from simple to sophisticated. Simple units have a sprayer and a canister of chemicals. Advanced systems have timers and multiple nozzles that let you direct the mist to very specific sites and varying times/durations.

Pest Birds Slip on this Slope

If they can't land, they can't nest. That's how Bird Slopes bird proof so many properties. These unassuming, slippery PVC panels fit just about anywhere and prevent pest birds from getting a grip. After several landing attempts, birds abandon the area and head for better landing zones. The angled panels are ideal for use on eaves, ledges, beams and other similar niches. They're easy to install on almost any surface and will deter a wide range of pest birds.